Old Site Archive

I figured before I delete my old website, I'd post my articles somewhere...


Nov 10, 2013 -  Uncategorized    No Comments

Improving Rider Position

In the last few months I’ve started to take lessons again so that I can continue to be competitive in the horse showing world. I’ve had as many as 8 instructors in the course of my riding education and not one had the same teaching methods/priorities. My journey into the world of dressage began in April and with it, I once again started with a new trainer. I had thought that I was a pretty solid rider – I had great leg muscles from gripping my horse, steady hands, generally good heels, a really solid lower leg, and my butt was almost super glued to the saddle. No amount of walk/trot/canter could move me from my position and I could even ride a couple bucks (if a horse REALLY wanted me off I would have been on the ground in a matter of seconds but  that’s true for many riders).
So when I started with my new dressage instructor, I had expected to move along to the harder movements within a lesson or two. The lesson started out fairly well warming up at the walk but as soon as we tried some trot, things fell apart. It was only my second ever ride on Desi so I had anticipated a slight learning curve, after all, no two horses are the same. What I didn’t expect was the horse to take off like a rocket and spook at everything he saw. Now, if I had known at the time what the problem was, it could have been corrected much faster. All throughout the lap of spooking and running my balance was disrupted and I had my new instructor yelling at me to “Stop pinching with your knees! Don’t grip with your legs!” I pulled the horse back down to a walk and proceeded to re-learn how to ride a horse. I learned that something as simple as “walk” is not nearly as straightforward as it seems. There is a precarious balance of speed, collection, relaxation, bend, outside rein, leg aids, seat movement, etc. that I had never even considered before. And you have to be completely in control of every aspect of your horse at he walk before you can ever expect to get a nice trot.
The problem itself, and topic of this post was that my position, while appearing solid, was actually a ticking time bomb. I may have appeared to have good equitation but there is a difference between someone who can look good in the saddle and someone who can ride correctly. I had been taught that the best riders achieved their solid leg position by clamping onto their horses sides so that they didn’t move an inch even in the roughest gaits. What ended up happening was that my overly sensitive green horse took my “solid” leg as a cue to go faster and then began to spook when my seat was disturbed and I was bouncing all over him. In reality a solid leg does have a good contact with the horse, but it does not squeeze like you’re trying to get the last of the toothpaste out of the tube. The thing that keeps you in the saddle (and moving with the horse for that matter) is your seat.
The most important (and often overlooked) aspect of a good rider is the “independent seat”. This basically means that they have the ability to remain solid and balanced in the saddle at all times and that they can use any part of their body to give a cue without moving the other parts. It may seem simple but it is actually fairly hard to achieve. It allows the horse and rider to function harmoniously with the clearest possible cues. Without it, a rider will eventually hit a plateau where they will be unable to progress any further in their chosen discipline. A rider’s lack of stability can also affect the horse’s ability to perform.
The subject of correct riding could take up an entire novel so I’ll have to stop here and leave you with a couple links that I found particularly helpful.
It isn’t easy to admit to the whole internet that I made a mistake, especially one that could have been so avoidable, but I’m hoping that someone else can learn from me. Being a good rider is not just about looking good in the saddle or riding correctly. You have to appreciate the 1000 beast you are dancing with and constantly strive to become a better rider. You owe him that at least.
Nov 8, 2013 -  Uncategorized    No Comments

Saddles and Bridles and Boots, Oh My!

So far I’ve spent probably 3 hours cleaning and oiling my saddle. And oiling and oiling and oiling some more. It’s definitely getting better but upon closer inspection, it’s neglect looks like it began years before I bought it. It appears that the previous owners did nothing to maintain it (and matching breastcollar) but wipe down with a damp rag and occasionally use some lexol on the visible surfaces. This being said, it is in pretty good shape for it’s age – it just needs some TLC.
I don’t know if anyone feels the same way, but when I have all my leather cleaning stuff out and a nice shiny saddle, suddenly my entire tack room looks grimy and I have the uncontrollable urge to clean everything. I mean everything. So I started with the breastcollar that came with my saddle, and has been neglected far longer. I have cleaned the thing in the past, but it never really comes out looking any better. This time to go along with my deep-clean saddle project, I decided to remove the conchos. They are pretty easy to unscrew so it wasn’t a big deal but it was dry and gross underneath. There are also 2 weird concho type things that weren’t attached with screws so I figured they didn’t come off. Then as I was beginning to scrub the leather I could access, I had a lightbulb moment. I fiddled with the weird concho things and figured out that they functioned like a paper fastener- the two metal rods out the back were just bent wide to keep them in place, and could be bent straight up to remove them. Yay! And eww. They have not been taken off since the saddle was made. It was all funky and fuzzy green underneath which just goes to show you that you have to take tack all the way apart to get a really good clean. And remember that just because you can’t easily see it does not mean it shouldn’t get cleaned. Often the parts that break first are the ones that are hidden (like under buckles, flaps, and keepers) and consequently don’t get conditioned.
I’ve taken a couple pictures of the breastcollar to show you what I mean about taking off all the pieces but I can’t get them to upload. As I progress through my tack room, I’ll probably post little hints I’ve figured out for cleaning different equipment. Hope I’ve inspired you to clean something!
Nov 7, 2013 -  Uncategorized    No Comments

Saddle Cleaning

Since show season is over and I have a long winter ahead of me, I decided to take up western again. Desi’s been on a few trail rides in a western saddle so it wasn’t a big deal to him when I put mine on him. I absolutely love my western saddle, I bought it 2 years ago from a tack sale for a fantastic price and I would have been really disappointed if it hadn’t fit. Thankfully, it fits like a glove which is a small miracle with this horse. I rode in it and he did surprisingly well but the one thing that gave me trouble was how stiff the saddle was. The fenders were so rock hard that I had to ride with my legs way out to the side to avoid stabbing my horse with my saddle. The ride lasted a few minutes before I gave up and postponed it for another time. First I had to clean and condition my saddle.
I will admit I’m a little lazy, so for the last couple years I’ve been on a hiatus from western and my saddle has been sitting in a case in my garage. And I have not once oiled it since I put it away. (Yes, I know that’s really bad. But whats out of sight is usually also out of mind). I decided to spend the next week doing a really good job of oiling my saddle. I had considered taking it to a saddle repair place to have it cleaned professionally but the cost would be near $100 so I opted no to do that. Instead, I decided to do it myself.
To get a really good clean (and hopefully put a stop to some annoying squeaking) I decided to try taking off the fenders – completely off – which I didn’t actually know was possible until reading what a professional cleaning would entail. Wow. The part of the fender that goes under the tree is SO dry. I don’t think it has been oiled since it was built. It absorbs oil/conditioner faster than I can apply it. I am so glad I decided to pull them off to clean because if it had gone another couple of years without, they would probably have snapped off. This being said, getting them back on when I’m done could be interesting. If worst comes to worst, I can always take it to a tack repair place and have them put back on, which would cost less than having it cleaned professionally. They might not even charge for it.
I’ll definitely update when my saddle is finally back together, hopefully with pictures that aren’t upside-down!
Sep 22, 2013 -  Uncategorized    Comments Off

Thrush

With fall coming, the rains increase and I’m finding my
horse’s hooves more and more wet each day. I’m glad the weather is cooling down
but with the increase in moisture comes an increased risk for thrush.  It is one of the most common problems that
plague horse owners, so I don’t quite understand why it seems so simple. So
often I hear “My horse has thrush, I guess I’ll just dump some stuff on it for
a few days and it’ll go away.” I guess compared to the trauma of a colic,
thrush seems unimportant.
If you’ve
ever heard the saying, “no hoof, no horse” you’ll understand that without a
good healthy hoof, numerous problems can develop.  It’s like a house; without a good foundation,
it will just come crumbling down. Similarly, a horse with hoof problems can develop
other issues because of it. If the horse is uncomfortable in one hoof, it may
start to balance its weight unevenly and put too much strain on a tendon.  When you go to ride, your horse puts too much
pressure on that already strained tendon and you end up with a much bigger
problem.
This is
why ANY issue in the hoof should be treated with much care. If thrush is so
simple, shouldn’t it be easy to get rid of too? If it is a mild case, it can
be. If the thrush is isolated to the two grooves on either side of the frog,
keeping it cleaned out and treating it for a few days should eliminate the
problem. However, if the thrush has gotten itself into the cleft of the frog,
under old hoof into “pockets”, or you notice your horse has a defined crack
between the bulbs of the heels, you’ve got a much bigger problem.  In any of these cases, it becomes much harder
to keep the area clean and to treat all the thrush. When the thrush gets itself
into those hard to reach areas, it just keeps eating at the hoof deeper and
deeper. In some serious cases, a hoof pick can be inserted into the crack so
far that the pick disappears entirely. This is not normal. In a healthy hoof,
there should be no hidden crevices. The cleft of the frog should be a small
indentation (sometimes described as a “dimple”) and the bulbs of the heels
should have a completely solid, closed, hoof growing under them.
So now
we should discuss how to treat varying cases of thrush.  First and foremost, the hoof needs to be
cleaned out WELL. Not just picking out the big gunk, but using a brush to get
all the grooves clean and often even getting out the hose to spray out all the
crevices. Some people are concerned about introducing more moisture into the
hoof but in my opinion it doesn’t do any harm as long as it is allowed to dry
fully. It is very important to get the hoof clean in order to properly evaluate
the location and severity of the thrush. Once you have an idea of how bad it
is, you can come up an appropriate treatment plan.  Keeping the hoof clean and applying a product
made for thrush will generally eliminate the problem. However, if you have a
severe case of thrush, especially if you are unable to get into some of the “pockets”,
you should enlist the help of your Ferrier who can trim away the dead hoof to
expose the bacteria beneath. My personal favorite product for treating thrush
is “No Thrush Dry Formula”. I was at first concerned that it would not stay on
the hoof but after several applications I have noticed that it stays fairly
well. For a more stubborn case you might need to resort to using something stronger
like thrush buster or kopertox.
Once
the thrush is gone, it is important to keep picking out the feet on a regular basis
and consider treating them with No Thrush or a similar product bi-weekly as a
preventative during the wet months.
Hope this helps, or inspires you to do some more research
into thrush and the horse’s hooves. Happy trails!
Sep 5, 2013 -  Uncategorized    Comments Off

The Pros and Cons of Showing

Why do I feel the need to show my horse? Well, to begin, it is an opportunity to display to my friends and family how far I’ve come with my horse. Moving from W/T Greenhorse into W/T/C, and eventually graduating to open classes. In dressage, it is thrilling when we master a new maneuver and are able to perform it in a show environment. I think mostly though, it is just a great opportunity to challenge my horse and teach him to be calm and cool in all kinds of situations.
Unfortunately, it is also the reason I haven’t posted in a month. Horse shows are incredibly time-consuming, even when you are at home. Cleaning tack, buying those last minute items, bathing, clipping… It all takes so much time! I apologize to anyone (or no one for that matter, at this point I’m blogging just for fun and I doubt anyone is reading it) for being so flakey, but August is show season!
Anyway, now that I’m back to fall and the majority of shows are over, I can finally start blogging again. So thank you for reading and patience. Because I know if you work with horses, you have a plethora of patience :)
Jul 31, 2013 -  Uncategorized    Comments Off

The battle of the tail

When I first started working with Desi, his tail was tangled into dreadlocks and “ropes” from his dock all the way down to the ground. It wasn’t because of poor grooming, just that the winter had been mucky and wet and windy and he is turned out all day – leaving no possible way to keep up with the knots (editorial note: his tail will be bagged next winter. His owner did not show so the condition of his tail was not as important.). Needless to say, my first day of his lease in the spring was spent on his tail. I coated the whole thing in showsheen and cowboy magic detangler. All in all, I worked my way through managing to keep hair loss to a minimum. I think it took me upwards of an hour to get it all untangled. I then washed the gross thing and when it dried, it was amazing. I had seen horses with fake tails that were not as full and beautiful as his was naturally. It was breathtaking. And terrifying. Why, you might ask, is a beautifully full tail terrifying? Because I had to maintain it. Which proved to be just as difficult as I had thought it might be.
As the weather warmed up and Desi’s winter blanket came off, I began to notice a couple broken hairs at the top of his tail every now and then. I didn’t think it was a big deal. I was wrong.
One day, I went out to ride Desi and was shocked to see how badly he had rubbed it in the course of a day or two. It looked like a birds nest perched right on top of his tail from all the broken and tangled hairs. I brushed it out and washed/conditioned it, hoping that would stop the issue. It didn’t.
As the weeks went on, the battle of the tail had begun. Every visit out to the barn revealed a more badly damaged tail. I began to research all the possible reasons that he might be rubbing. I thought it might be from dirt, dry skin, irritations, fungus, flys, a dirty sheath, worms, sweet ich, or maybe just an annoying habit that he had picked up. So I tried every remedy that the Internet offered : shampoos, conditioners, detangler, MTG, medicated soaps, listerine, micro tek, cowboy magic, baby oil, tea tree oil, cleaned his sheath, wormed him, aloe, solarcaine, head and shoulders shampoo, and the list goes on and on. Nothing seemed to work. Finally, one day I noticed that the top of his tail had begun to go bald due to the horrific rubbing and I decided to throw in the towel. I sewed an ugly (but functional) tail cover onto a fly sheet and put it on Desi, hoping it would prevent him from doing any more damage. Well, it did work – but at a price. While he was finally unable to rub his tail, the sheet rubbed his shoulders raw and took a chunk out of his lower mane. So after 2 weeks with the fly sheet, I took it off. His shoulders and mane were too great a price to pay to stop the tail rubbing. But I did try one last remedy the night I took off the sheet – I soaked his tail in a 1:1 vinegar to water solution. The next day I came out to find his tail untouched. A couple days later, he still hadn’t rubbed again. I’m hoping that this is the end of the battle of the tail. Please. Please let it be over. I’m putting MTG on his shoulders to grow that hair back and continuing to apply the vinegar solution every few days. It’s been about a week since the sheet came off and so far, so good. I’ve washed and disinfected my entire grooming kit, just to be safe. I’m hoping this is the end of my tail rubbing problem… I just have to grow it back now. Sigh.
Jul 30, 2013 -  Uncategorized    Comments Off

At long last…

The day has finally come! My new Myler bit has arrived!!! I was in the parking lot of the tack store when it opened this morning to pick it up. Afterwards, I drove straight to the barn to try it out.
My first impression of the bit was that it was surprisingly light (less metal to unthaw in the winter). It was also a little thinner than I thought but I think that may end up being a benefit for me because it will give Desi a clearer cue.
Anyways, back to my little story…
I saddled my horse and put on his boots and attached his new bit to the bridle. Desi is not a horse who likes his routine to be changed (something we are working on with him). Even switching to a different color saddle pad is enough to make him nervous, so a new bit could be interesting. With that in mind, I slipped his bridle onto his head. He chewed the bit once, froze, and looked at me like, “ This. Is. Not. My. Bit.” I clipped on the lunge line and led him to the round pen. He was a little unsure at first, but seemed to relax quickly and even started to stretch down and collect himself.
Since he was doing so well, I decided to ride him in it. It was one of the best rides I’ve ever had on him. He was responsive and supple. He reacted to very little rein pressure and held himself nicely. My favorite part was that his annoying habit of tossing his head when we stop was gone. He held still and collected on a loose rein in the middle of the arena for five minutes while I made a phone call. I wish I could have videotaped what he was like before so I could show the difference. I had considered just riding in the old bit one more time for a video but I don’t ever want to ride him in anything but a Myler bit again! The difference is amazing, it’s like I’ve got a whole different horse. It was worth every penny and more!
Jul 25, 2013 -  Uncategorized    Comments Off

The waiting game

So up until this point, my horse has been riding in a very standard loose ring snaffle bit. I’ve found that he has a little bit of a lower palate so I decided to purchase him a new bit, something double jointed. I looked at French links, dr Bristols, bean links, etc. but I never really felt inspired to buy one… That is, until I discovered the Myler snaffle bits. At first, the price was a real turn off. I was used to buying the $20 korsteels or used bits at tack sales (of course I sanitized them first), so the almost $80 price tag was a pretty easy “NO”. As I continued to look at bits, for some reason, I could not let the idea of the Myler go. So I did what I always do when facing a horsey dilemma, I turned to the Internet. Reviews were all fantastic for the bit, with many experienced professionals swearing up and down that this was the best you could buy. I watched a couple videos by the Myler brothers explaining the unique functions of the bit. I had to admit that I did love the features. Finally I found some videos of the difference some people had experienced when riding their horse in a Myler bit.
Before I committed to buying such an expensive piece of metal, I decided to research one last piece of the puzzle. We’re there any other (less expensive, hopefully) bits that compared to the Mylers? The answer: kind of. I’d been hoping for a rock solid yes or no but the truth is that it really depends on your horse and what you are looking for in a bit. If you ride primarily western, you may want to take a look at Imus bits. They make 2 bits that I could find (available from nationalbridle.com and listed as “comfort gait bit” and “training transition bit”) but they lack the variety of the Mylers and the price is almost the same at $70. If you are looking for independent side action, then Myler is the best choice.
So with my research done and the Myler level 1 loose ring comfort snaffle chosen, it was time to buy. I went down to my local tack store, just to check and see if they had the right size. They didn’t but they were having a 20% off any one item sale. They offered to order the bit for me in my horses size but I declined and decided to try other tack stores in the area. Guess what? Very few places sell Myler bits. After checking with 5 other stores (some of which I would have had to drive over an hour to get to) I hurried back to the first store and ordered the bit. It ended up costing me $69 including tax and I wouldn’t have to worry about shipping.
So this is where I am now; waiting for the bit to arrive. It has been several weeks since I ordered and I’m getting really impatient. I ordered some hoof supplements from statelinetack a few days after purchasing the bit and they arrived a week ago. The bit however, still has not come. I’m hoping they call me this morning so I can come and pick it up, but I’d be willing to bet its going to come this weekend while I’m on vacation. Ugh. Despite the extended wait, I still didn’t have to pay for shipping so I think it’s worth it. I’ll definitely update when I finally get the bit and let you guys know what Desi thinks of it.
As a side note, Desi got to try his cookies last night after my ride and he absolutely loved them! Maybe he likes them better chewy? Anyways, I’d definitely consider them a success.
Jul 24, 2013 -  Uncategorized    Comments Off

Hot days and even hotter rides

It was hot today. Really hot. It’s been an above average summer as far as temperature goes so I’ve had to learn a lot about dealing with the heat. Thankfully it hasn’t been a big issue for Desi (as I knock on wood) but I’ve still had to plan ahead of time to make sure our rides are as comfortable for both of us as they can be.
First of all, I’ve been arriving to the barn about 1/2 hour before I plan to ride and making sure he drinks some water. I then do a running braid on his long mane to keep it off his neck and help him stay cool. I try to use a fitted saddle pad if I’m riding english to minimize the heat.
I’ll normally stick in the indoor arena but sometimes outside is better if there is a breeze because of the improved air circulation. I like to do a lot of walk work and do lots of transitions, rather than long periods of trotting or cantering. I feel like hot weather is a helpful break from our regular riding and offers us the chance to really refine the slower gaits. You can try doing side passes, leg yields, turns on the haunch or forehand, speeding and slowing the walk, serpentines, going around obstacles, etc. Just because you do more walk does not mean your ride has to be boring.
Afterwards I do a thorough cool out at the walk (if I did some trotting or cantering) and hose him down. Give him some electrolytes and make sure he drinks some water before I leave.
I’ve also learned that while taking good care of my horse in the heat is important, I need to take care of myself as well. I wear athletic shirts that wick moisture and allow the air to flow. I’ve found that drinking a bottle of Gatorade before and after I ride helps keep me hydrated.
Sometimes, it is important to keep in mind that it may just be too hot to ride and you should try to come out in the early morning or evening when the temperature isn’t so high.
Here are some great articles about riding in the summer and preventing dehydration:
http://www.horsechannel.com/horse-exclusives/avoid-horse-heat-traps.aspx
http://www.horsechannel.com/media/horse-exclusives/too-hot-to-ride.aspx.pdf
http://www.horsechannel.com/horse-news/2011/08/08/hot-weather-horse-care.aspx
Jul 22, 2013 -  Uncategorized    Comments Off

Horsey Cookies trial 1

On a day where I can’t go to the barn for one reason or another I like to pass the time by creating something for my horse. Some of my favorite projects are ones that I’ve made during on a week long vacation while suffering from horse-withdrawal. That being said, there are times where I don’t feel like breaking out the sewing machine and opt for something a little bit simpler. Unless you for some reason haven’t read the title of this post, you will have already figured out I’m talking about treats.
Today was one of those days that I couldn’t make it to the barn – this time because of a baby shower I had to attend. When I got home, it was a little too late to go for a ride but I still had enough time to make some treats.
I don’t really have a perfect recipe but I’ve found that when it comes to horses, you really don’t have to have one. I usually stick to some combination of oats, pelleted feed, carrot or apple pieces, molasses, and some flour for a binding ingredient. I’ve tried a bunch of ways to make them crunchy (I don’t know why but I feel more satisfied when my horse bites into a homemade treat and it crunches) and I’ve found that the best way was to cook them low and slow. I usually stick around 300 degrees and cook for as long as it needs to be golden brown and crunchy – usually about 15-20 minutes. The time will depend on how thick you make them and what shape you cook them in.
Unfortunately, a last minute run to the store forced me to shut off the oven before they were finished so they’re more chewy than I would like. I honestly don’t think Desi will even care.
I store them in a Tupperware container in the fridge until I am ready to take them out to the barn. They usually last me a week or two when stored this way. For those of you who like exact measurements, here is a recipe that is really similar to the treats I made:
1 Cup dry oats
1 Cup molasses
3/4 Cup cut or shredded carrots
1/2 Cup flour
1/2 Cup pelleted feed
The mixture should be sticky but firm. Add more molasses if too dry, add more oats (or pellets) if too wet. I pressed into a small greased baking dish using waxed paper to keep it from sticking to me.
They turned out pretty well all things considered. Maybe next time ill try baking them into shapes…
I apologize for the upside-down pictures. Blog.com image upload and I are having issues, ill try to fix them soon. In the meantime, you get the idea.

For anyone who is wondering, I bought the pan thing at crate and barrel.

No comments:

Post a Comment